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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I was wondering, I want to get the strut bar and I was reading on other posts that it was fairly easy to install. I am no mechanic-savvy kind of guy, but if I can do something on my own, I will definitely try. On the tanabe site I believe, it say it is best if you "DO" raise the car when installing the bar in order to achieve better results. Now, my questions are 1. Can you raise the front end only, or does it have to be the entire car? and 2. Is it smart/safe to use two floor jacks? I don't want to go to a body shop and have to pay them to lift the car and do the work myself, or have to pay them to install the tower bar. Any feedback/advice/tips would be greatly appreciated. :yes:
 

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AF, the purpose of raising the car before you install the strut bar is to take the load off of the towers. By doing this you will put the towers in they're neutral position and you will get better results from the strut bar. It isn't absolutely necessary but recommended. You don't have to remove the tires, just put floor jacks under both sides toward the front and raise it just enough to allow the struts to relax, then install the strut bar and you're good to go. - Dan
 

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Square1 said:
AF, the purpose of raising the car before you install the strut bar is to take the load off of the towers. By doing this you will put the towers in they're neutral position and you will get better results from the strut bar. It isn't absolutely necessary but recommended. You don't have to remove the tires, just put floor jacks under both sides toward the front and raise it just enough to allow the struts to relax, then install the strut bar and you're good to go. - Dan
Great info, makes prefect sense.

Now I wonder about the NON-adjustable tower bars, does it make a difference?
 

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Okay, This is my opportunity to give somone some simple honest help. I just installed my tanabe strut tower bar two days ago. This is what I done. Exactly nine inches from the front of the front bumper, there is a plastic covered cross section of frame. If you reach under the car in about the center area, there is some holes through both the plastic, and metal part of the cross section. Put your finger in the hole, and feel to make sure there is metal behind the plastic cover. I put a block of wood between my jack, and the frame to help cushion, and spread the pressure point on the plastic frame cover. I jacked the screw jack up until it was snug against the frame, but not yet raising the car up any. Then I removed the existing tower "flange bolts" [two on each side]. Then I placed the strut bar on, and positioned each end bracket over the bolt holes. [you will have to temporarily fix your hood support rod in a different location because it will be in your way] You will need to use the supplied longer bolts in place of the stock flange bolts. Also, there are flat washers, and lock washers with the supplied longer bolts. I only used the flat washers, because if you try to use both, then you will not get enough threads screwed into the bolt holes, and you will risk stripping out the bolts [or worse, the bolt holes]. Now snug the bolts down good, but do not tighten completely. Now it is time to jack up the car. I raised the car until the wheels were almost off the ground, but still resting on the ground. Then I tightened the tower bolts down good [until they were about as tight as the original bolts were. I did not have a torque wrench, but it is probably a good idea if you have one] Then I pushed (twisted) the bar upward, and rearward, and tightened the locking nuts against it on each side. Then I tightened the clevice bolts down good on each end of the bar [you will need a metric allen wrench to do this. Now, lower the car back down, and you are done. As far as how much difference will the bar make? You will know it has made a difference, as soon as you sit down in it. It will feel more solid. It will still ride nice, and smooth. The only difference is now both front shocks are working together, sharing the load. In my opinion, I like the ride even better. But the greatest benefit is the handling is so much better. That floaty, disconnected feeling is gone. If you don't get these same rusults, please let me know. I have to believe that anyone who is not seeing a major difference, has not properly installed the strut bar. [It must be rigid, and taught between the struts in order work properly] One problem is that the installation instructions are written in japanese, and unless you can read japanese, you're on your own. I hope this helps. :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Great advice, thanks so much. I admire the fact that so many of you basically do the work yourselves, I want to do the same, but I'm afraid of "breaking" my car and ending up paying for it later on. I could always go to a bodyshop... but I'm still in a recession. :roll:

I appreciate the help and advice, and when I do get the tower bar, I plan on videotaping the before/after results. It might help others to literally "see" the difference.
 

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jayeetown said:
Great info, makes prefect sense.

Now I wonder about the NON-adjustable tower bars, does it make a difference?
Well first off I wouldn't use a strut bar without any adjustment, it's always nice to be able to fine tune. The talk about lifting your car to relax the load is always a good idea. But with all that said here's the honest truth. Strut bars do make a HUGE difference in many cars, but when it comes to a car like the Cube, Ford Focus, and many others that have the shock towers integrated into the firewall, don't expect to see a day and night difference. The firewall does add a ton of rigidity by itself. Although they may not be super noticeable in the Cube, they will in fact tighten things up a bit and lets face it, any help is an improvement. You will most likely feel a big difference installing a chassis brace. So if you add a chassis brace along with a strut bar you should be able to notice a nice difference. I don't have either a chassis brace or strut bar yet, but for the cost of these items I will be installing both at some point. - Dan
 

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yeah i agree when we combined the under brace along with the already installed strut bar is when i noticed the most diference on it i will say big time diference

and i also agree on the full unnecesary work lifting the car and bending some plastic i dont know where...all you have to do is remove the two front bolts on each side that holds the strut, pop in the strut bar and re bolt the screws that,s it your done

now if you are doing the under brace....well still you dont need to do all that chebang!! :D

all we did is lift the cube really high and the rest was butter

this is just one of the million mods i always said the following and i,ll keep saying it over and over

if you are a little afraid or worry about voiding the warranty at any point then simply dont even touch the poor car..i seen people worry even about changing the stereo

there are a million ways to void your warranty and still fool the dealers once that car makes it back to a dealer if it ever makes it back...
i do my own tune ups on my cube not only because i dont trust the dealer mechanichs but also because i used a much better oil than the oem recomended
 

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Like Damien, warranties don't concern me. I do all my own work and modify what ever I feel like. I've never taken ANY car I've owned to a dealer for ANYTHING other than recall stuff. I would take a car to the dealer if a major component went bad and it was covered under warranty, like an engine, tranny, cat, etc. But so far in the many new cars I've bought this hasn't happened yet. And even at that, if I ever were to take a car to a dealership for repair of a covered item, I would be very specific as to what I'm there for. I have my own scan tool and do my own diagnostics so I would know before the dealer does what's wrong. - Dan
 

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Square1 said:
Like Damien, warranties don't concern me. I do all my own work and modify what ever I feel like. I've never taken ANY car I've owned to a dealer for ANYTHING other than recall stuff. I would take a car to the dealer if a major component went bad and it was covered under warranty, like an engine, tranny, cat, etc. But so far in the many new cars I've bought this hasn't happened yet. And even at that, if I ever were to take a car to a dealership for repair of a covered item, I would be very specific as to what I'm there for. I have my own scan tool and do my own diagnostics so I would know before the dealer does what's wrong. - Dan

daang straight man!
same went for the Gcoupe brembo edition i had back a couple years ago, and the 08 audi TT and the mini yaris and the mazda 3 :D :D :D :D :D :D

i am a warranty voider lol! i guess is all of us enthusiast passion for cars
 

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Square1 said:
jayeetown said:
Great info, makes prefect sense.

Now I wonder about the NON-adjustable tower bars, does it make a difference?
Well first off I wouldn't use a strut bar without any adjustment, it's always nice to be able to fine tune. The talk about lifting your car to relax the load is always a good idea. But with all that said here's the honest truth. Strut bars do make a HUGE difference in many cars, but when it comes to a car like the Cube, Ford Focus, and many others that have the shock towers integrated into the firewall, don't expect to see a day and night difference. The firewall does add a ton of rigidity by itself. Although they may not be super noticeable in the Cube, they will in fact tighten things up a bit and lets face it, any help is an improvement. You will most likely feel a big difference installing a chassis brace. So if you add a chassis brace along with a strut bar you should be able to notice a nice difference. I don't have either a chassis brace or strut bar yet, but for the cost of these items I will be installing both at some point. - Dan
You make total sense. I'm planning to purchase both from Bean Garage once I get my tax refund.
 

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Square1 said:
AF, the purpose of raising the car before you install the strut bar is to take the load off of the towers. By doing this you will put the towers in they're neutral position and you will get better results from the strut bar. It isn't absolutely necessary but recommended. You don't have to remove the tires, just put floor jacks under both sides toward the front and raise it just enough to allow the struts to relax, then install the strut bar and you're good to go. - Dan
What's tricky, of course, is knowing just how much jack you can apply at each front side to achieve a neutral/relaxed tower position. Personally, I've no means to gauge it and so the reliable solution is to single jack from the front center. That way you're guaranteed front tower suspension equalization (despite any uneveness in the surface you're jacking on). I definitely recommend that approach over attempting to equilibrate dual front jacking points. In any case, good luck :)!
 
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