Nissan Cube Life - Nissan Cube Car Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
690 Posts
For coilovers, they don't seem low enough. I guess they don't have em slammed. What's the point? If you're not gonna go super low for show, may as well get regular springs. Unless you gotta deal with crappy winters or something. How often do ppl w/ coilovers actually raise and lower them on a regular basis?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
394 Posts
In the picturres of the White Cube, the rear wheels look like they're tucked just a little too far up into the fenderwell. I would prefer them close, but not INSIDE the fenderwell area. Also........wider tires would rub because of this.
Anyone else notice that or am I just old fashioned??? I don't like the "broken suspension" look. Couldn't drive a MexaRican car around on the roads where I live anyway. You would end up destroying it in no time. We have terrible roads here. I don't think more than about an inch lower here would be advisable. What's the minimum distance you can lower a car by changing the springs without going to added expense beyond the spring kit? ???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
690 Posts
Starbuck said:
In the picturres of the White Cube, the rear wheels look like they're tucked just a little too far up into the fenderwell. I would prefer them close, but not INSIDE the fenderwell area. Also........wider tires would rub because of this.
Anyone else notice that or am I just old fashioned??? I don't like the "broken suspension" look. Couldn't drive a MexaRican car around on the roads where I live anyway. You would end up destroying it in no time. We have terrible roads here. I don't think more than about an inch lower here would be advisable. What's the minimum distance you can lower a car by changing the springs without going to added expense beyond the spring kit? ???
I saw that too on the white one. Toed out. Extreme camber issues. Crappy wear on tires. I'm sure the coilovers comp for camber, but imagine doing a full alignment every time you screw around with settings. Don't get me wrong, I'd like to get these, but they seem impractical for my application.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
The coilovers are on max low already. Don't slam it to the lowest setting and you should be fine. :)

There are plans on going even lower in the front, with roll center adjusters in the front.

It's going to be a VIP Style car for the most part. Now, the tricky part is to get some nice wheels in a 4 x 114.3 bolt pattern or do a 4 x 100 hub conversion LOL. Thinking along the lines of 17s (SSR Professors).

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Yeah, the problem with the SSR Viennas, Work Eurolines, Schwert, and Varianzas is they don't do 4 x 100.

Main reason being the bore of the 4 x 114.3 becomes too big, and that causes issues with weight (back pad weight) and wheel design.

So, they all make 4 x 100 bolt patterns.

If you don't mind doing some custom stuff and keeping your car, and redrilling for a 4 x 100 w/ new ARP Studs, you can run all the gangster fitting, gorgeous, VIP Wheels.

Everything else is easy. Nissan left the rear fender rolled/cut, and the fronts need to be rolled and the liners modified.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
690 Posts
1QuickCube said:
Everything else is easy. Nissan left the rear fender rolled/cut, and the fronts need to be rolled and the liners modified.
how hard is it to roll the fenders? i know back in the day we used to take a baseball bat...lol! fo reals. anyways, i'm thinking i may have to cut away the plastic liners. don't know how practical that is in the wet PNW. wouldn't want to trap water in there and rust out the fenders....

let's see those dropped Cubes here!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Well nowadays, there are actual fender rollers that mount to the hub and can make fender rolling cleaner and easier.

Most extremely low cars, most people remove the fender liners completely. Depending on the car, sometimes there is a lot under there, sometimes there is almost nothing. If anything, the wiring is usually ziptied or strapped to a pinch weld.

If you plan on keeping the car and want to go LOW (VIP Low), hammering the pinch weld sideways a little bit so it doesn't cut into the tire is recommended. You won't be sacrificing anything by doing so.

Most cars these days have aluminum fenders, (not sure about the cube yet). If it doesn't, when cars get painted, there is usually an E-Coat underneath the primer to prevent rusting. That's why most bodyshops try not to remove the factory E-Coat when painting over.

HOTCUBE: Not sure as my friend has not racked up the car and measured it out yet as to what exactly can fit. We are definitely trying to go aggressive (as wide, and low offsets as possible). But we need to make sure of backspacing and a few other things. He also needs to see how low the S-0Cs can go (since Tanabe makes shorter PRO210 springs, he might change out the springs/rates so he can go lower for a bit of rake).

And when the car is really low, the roll center changes, so spending the extra 300 or so bucks for a quality RCA (Roll center adjuster) is not a bad investment in doing so. There is a huge difference between a Megan RCA and a quality one.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
709 Posts
1QuickCube said:
Well nowadays, there are actual fender rollers that mount to the hub and can make fender rolling cleaner and easier.

Most extremely low cars, most people remove the fender liners completely. Depending on the car, sometimes there is a lot under there, sometimes there is almost nothing. If anything, the wiring is usually ziptied or strapped to a pinch weld.

If you plan on keeping the car and want to go LOW (VIP Low), hammering the pinch weld sideways a little bit so it doesn't cut into the tire is recommended. You won't be sacrificing anything by doing so.

Most cars these days have aluminum fenders, (not sure about the cube yet). If it doesn't, when cars get painted, there is usually an E-Coat underneath the primer to prevent rusting. That's why most bodyshops try not to remove the factory E-Coat when painting over.

HOTCUBE: Not sure as my friend has not racked up the car and measured it out yet as to what exactly can fit. We are definitely trying to go aggressive (as wide, and low offsets as possible). But we need to make sure of backspacing and a few other things. He also needs to see how low the S-0Cs can go (since Tanabe makes shorter PRO210 springs, he might change out the springs/rates so he can go lower for a bit of rake).

And when the car is really low, the roll center changes, so spending the extra 300 or so bucks for a quality RCA (Roll center adjuster) is not a bad investment in doing so. There is a huge difference between a Megan RCA and a quality one.....
i talked to a rep today about wheel fitment..he said a 16x7 with the 15 offset will work on the cube, but will stick out a bit which isnt bad for what im going for..I think im just going to bite the bullet and try it..going to buy 1 rim and see what it measures up to look like and etc.. let me know if your friend does the measurements and such as I am going for the same look as well..Thanks man!
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
2,084 Posts
elDizzle_foShizzle said:
I saw that too on the white one. Toed out. Extreme camber issues. Crappy wear on tires. I'm sure the coilovers comp for camber, but imagine doing a full alignment every time you screw around with settings. Don't get me wrong, I'd like to get these, but they seem impractical for my application.
Sorry fella's camber is not an issue on the rear as it is torsion not wishbone. The front can have camber issues but not the back.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top