I saw that too on the white one. Toed out. Extreme camber issues. Crappy wear on tires. I'm sure the coilovers comp for camber, but imagine doing a full alignment every time you screw around with settings. Don't get me wrong, I'd like to get these, but they seem impractical for my application.Starbuck said:In the picturres of the White Cube, the rear wheels look like they're tucked just a little too far up into the fenderwell. I would prefer them close, but not INSIDE the fenderwell area. Also........wider tires would rub because of this.
Anyone else notice that or am I just old fashioned??? I don't like the "broken suspension" look. Couldn't drive a MexaRican car around on the roads where I live anyway. You would end up destroying it in no time. We have terrible roads here. I don't think more than about an inch lower here would be advisable. What's the minimum distance you can lower a car by changing the springs without going to added expense beyond the spring kit? ???
how hard is it to roll the fenders? i know back in the day we used to take a baseball bat...lol! fo reals. anyways, i'm thinking i may have to cut away the plastic liners. don't know how practical that is in the wet PNW. wouldn't want to trap water in there and rust out the fenders....1QuickCube said:Everything else is easy. Nissan left the rear fender rolled/cut, and the fronts need to be rolled and the liners modified.
i talked to a rep today about wheel fitment..he said a 16x7 with the 15 offset will work on the cube, but will stick out a bit which isnt bad for what im going for..I think im just going to bite the bullet and try it..going to buy 1 rim and see what it measures up to look like and etc.. let me know if your friend does the measurements and such as I am going for the same look as well..Thanks man!1QuickCube said:Well nowadays, there are actual fender rollers that mount to the hub and can make fender rolling cleaner and easier.
Most extremely low cars, most people remove the fender liners completely. Depending on the car, sometimes there is a lot under there, sometimes there is almost nothing. If anything, the wiring is usually ziptied or strapped to a pinch weld.
If you plan on keeping the car and want to go LOW (VIP Low), hammering the pinch weld sideways a little bit so it doesn't cut into the tire is recommended. You won't be sacrificing anything by doing so.
Most cars these days have aluminum fenders, (not sure about the cube yet). If it doesn't, when cars get painted, there is usually an E-Coat underneath the primer to prevent rusting. That's why most bodyshops try not to remove the factory E-Coat when painting over.
HOTCUBE: Not sure as my friend has not racked up the car and measured it out yet as to what exactly can fit. We are definitely trying to go aggressive (as wide, and low offsets as possible). But we need to make sure of backspacing and a few other things. He also needs to see how low the S-0Cs can go (since Tanabe makes shorter PRO210 springs, he might change out the springs/rates so he can go lower for a bit of rake).
And when the car is really low, the roll center changes, so spending the extra 300 or so bucks for a quality RCA (Roll center adjuster) is not a bad investment in doing so. There is a huge difference between a Megan RCA and a quality one.....
Sorry fella's camber is not an issue on the rear as it is torsion not wishbone. The front can have camber issues but not the back.elDizzle_foShizzle said:I saw that too on the white one. Toed out. Extreme camber issues. Crappy wear on tires. I'm sure the coilovers comp for camber, but imagine doing a full alignment every time you screw around with settings. Don't get me wrong, I'd like to get these, but they seem impractical for my application.