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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK So here goes. I'm going to document the process of my stereo install, and I'm going to try to clarify anything that has not been clarified before. If there is anything you do not understand, as always you may PM me. I am here to learn and educate. Like-wise, if there is anything I have done wrong PM me.

*I will reserve three posts below this one, because I know this will spill over, and I don't want to make people hunt through pages of info. I like to keep it all together. Mods, please allow me to do this, it will make the search of information easier.*

Legal: USE THIS INFO AT YOUR OWN RISK. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU DAMAGE ANYTHING. EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. Blah, Blah, Blah.

The List
__________________________________________
Products:
Head Unit: Clarion VX409
Front Speakers: Phoenix Gold RSD65CS 6.5" Components
Rear Fill Speakers: Phoenix Gold RSD6.5 6.5" Coaxials
Amp for Mids and highs: Polk Audio PA500.4 (90x4 RMS, you can believe their ratings)
Wiring Harness:Metra Combo Kit 99-7608 (Read post below for notes)
Speaker Wire: Knu Konceptz Karma SS 12 GA
Amp Power Wire: Knu Konceptz 4GA Kolossus Fleks Cable (Red)
Amp Ground Wire: Knu Conceptz 4GA Kolossus Fleks Cable (Black)
In Line Power Fuse: Knu Conceptz In-Line Waterproof Mini-ANL Fuse Holder w 120A Fuse
RCA Cables: (2) Knu Conceptz Karma SS RCA Cables
(4) eBay 6.5" Speaker Adapters
100ft FatMat Sound Damper.

NOTE: IF YOU DO NOT USE THE COMBO KIT, AS I HAVE SUGGESTED FURTHER DOWN IN THE POST, PLEASE USE Metra 40-NI12 FOR THE DIVERSITY ANTENNA, AND Metra 70-7552 FOR THE STEREO HARNESS ADAPTER. THANK YOU AGAIN CubeRich.

This covers what I have. I am also going to make a list for what I am going to get, and will add it to the above as I install.

Sub: Phoenix Gold RSDc104 10" Dual Voice Coil 4Ohm
Sub Amp: Phoenix Gold RSD 600.1 Mono D-Block Amp (Open to suggestions, trying to keep power in check with front speakers)
Cables: Power Cables, RCAs and Speaker Wire will be the same as above.
Enclosure: ATI 10" Sub-Enclosure
Headrest Monitors: Clarion VMA770 7" Widescreen

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Head Unit:
I picked this head unit for a few reasons:
1:It's Clarion, so you know it's good.
2:Even though manufactured in the Chinese factory, the OEM Head Unit Is Clarion
3:I liked the fit when I saw it in a previous thread. Not all of the Double Dins look this clean when installed.
4:Lots of dedicated preouts, and all are 4-Volt, meaning my amp is going to get a clean, strong signal.
5:Upgradable, I know a lot of you want the Nav built in. It's not on this, but you an add it. And IMHO you can add it cheaper than you can get a good name brand 7" class headunit with built in NAV.

That said, this unit is simple to install. The note above on the Metra combo kit is that if you use the Clarion VX409, YOU DO NOT NEED THE METRA DASH KIT. Save your money. This HU uses the factory brackets, bolts and fits fine with minimal gap. You honestly probably notice it more in photos than you do in real life. I'm talking in millimeter terms here. Fits like factory.


Clarion VX409 Compared to stock head unit from Base Model.

Preparing the Harness:
Get your Metra Dash Harness, and your Head Unit Harness. Familiarize yourself with the wires, and get the wiring chart for your stereo System. On the base model I didn't wire up the Remote Amp Wire. I wired a length of wire directly to the Clarion Harness to run back to my amp. You may need to wire it to the Metra harness if you have the RF system from the factory. I'm not sure on this.

I soldered all the wires and used shrink tubing on it, before taping the whole thing. I can't really tell you how to do this, as it is pretty simple. Color Match and double check that the color code is correct to what the wire's function is.


METRA DIVERSITY ADAPTER: If you do not buy the whole kit from metra, the diversity antenna adapter is Metra Part Number: Metra 40-NI12. The following paragraph as well as the photo were taken from www.crutchfield.com

"The Metra 40-NI12 vehicle antenna adapter cable allows you to replace your 2007 and up Nissan factory radio with an aftermarket radio that uses a standard motorola antenna input. The adapter cable features a proprietary plug that connects to your Nissan's factory antenna and a standard male motorola plug that connects to your aftermarket radio's antenna socket. The adapter cable also features a blue wire which connects to your aftermarket radio's power-antenna/turn-on lead."

With that being said, it should be easy to wire into the rest of the harness. Just wire the blue power wire to the antenna lead from the dash harness, and the rest is plug-n-play. I can't believe I forgot to add that in. Especially since I searched for a good 40 minutes on the internet looking for where to wire the blue wire. Thank you Cube Rich, for letting me know that I forgot to put that in there. You are getting a rep boost for that one.

This is a how to solder video from Popular Mechanics on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QznAAwL8rI

When you solder you also need to make sure to tape or my favorite, shrink tube your solder joints. Again Popular Mechanics on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-j98tkAbh8&feature=related

If you are not comfortable with soldering, you can use splicers, it's just bulkier and IMHO, not as clean. It also runs a bigger chance of pulling apart.


Alpine Harness and Metra Harness, which is still in the bag


Harness completed and Electrical taped. The blue wire bundle is for amp power, and the green is the parking brake wire for the video, which I am about to address.

PARKING BRAKE WIRE:
In order to keep things legal, you have to complete the circuit with the parking brake to watch video. IMHO this is LAME. NEVER WATCH THE SCREEN WATCH THE ROAD! But you may have a passenger who wants to watch the video. The manual tells you to tie it into the parking lamp's ground wire. This is the work around. Special Thanks to Twisted, who originally clarified this in a PM for me.

You need a two prong continuous switch, and a wiretap, as well as an extra length of DC wire of the same guage as the wires that exist. You will also need 2 Crimp on female spades. You can ground the wire to anything you want, but I think it is easiest to tap it back into the existing ground, so that is how I will explain it.

On the Clarion, the wire is Grass Green, and will be referred to as the green wire. If you have something else, use that color where ever I say green wire.

1: Crimp a female spade onto the green wire that is correct size for the male blade on the switch.
2: Crimp a female spade onto the wire that you are going to splice into the existing ground wire.
3: Wiretap the extra length of wire into the existing gound.
4: Plug the female spades onto the male blades of the power and ground poles. (Some switches come with an extra ACC blade. You may leave this alone, it does not matter.

Twisted said he hits the button twice, but I only flip the switch to the on position and it works. I have been told if you use a momentary switch you can press it twice, but I have no knowledge of this.


Kindegarten Quality drawing giving you a rough idea of the connections.


Switch while I was testing it for functionality. Here you can see the spades connected to the switch.


How's that for a clean install? Haha, bad joke. This is where I will wire it to, but I'm going to get a better looking switch and install it into the plug they put there for people that are not baller enough for the start button smart key system.



This was a pilot hole I made. After this point, I used a coarse round file to remove material. There is no way I was going to be able to drill to 15/16" without damaging the piece. The hole was very rough, but you can never tell from the front.




_________________________________________

DIVERSITY ANTENNA:
I had some trouble finding out where to hook up the power wire for Nissan's diversity antenna system, so I googled it and found out that it should be wired into the "accessory on" 12v wire on the Metra wiring harness. I used a wire tap for this, just the same as I did with the ground wire for the parking brake bypass.
__________________________________________
Removing the Stock HU:


1:Remove the battery's negative cable.


2:Remove the lower AC control panel. As you can see circled in yellow, there are two philips head screws. remove these and the panel pops off pretty easily.


3:Remove the two screws exposed by removing the lower AC Panel, and pull it away slowly. There are two wires atached to this, and you don't wanna rip them out, so no incredible Hulk stuff.


4:As you can see, Nissan has given you generous amounts of wire, so that you can actually access the wires. Remove these two berg connectors and the panel is free.



5: The radio is held in by two philips head screws on each side. Unscrew both of these, and pull the radio out slowly. Disconnect the two connectors in the back and the radio is out. If you have the Clarion like me, you will reuse the brackets on the side. This may also be true for other Double Din units.


6:Use a Torx Bit to remove the brackets from the OEM unit, and move them to the Clarion unit. There are nipples on the brackets (for lack of a better word) that will line up in indentions in the Clarion unit. Reinstall screws into the Clarion, they are the right length and thread pitch.


Clarion with the OEM brackets installed


Above shot of the Clarion and OEM stereo for a comparison.

7:At this time attach the wire harness to the Clarion (or other head unit), Plug in the harness, Motorola Antenna connector, and, in my case, the iPod harness. You may also have more harnesses depending on what options you are installing.

8:plug the harness adapter into the OEM dash wiring, and plug in the diversity antenna connector. I ran the iPod Connector through the right side and into the top shelf area of the glove box, because I'm a neat freak and didn't know where else to run it. The parking brake bypass switch i ran through the plug for the push button start. For the Amp RCA wires and Remote turn on wire, I ran them straight down to the lower panel area for the console. (I will cover this in better detail for the Amp Install section.)


9:Screw the brackets back into the OEM locations. The photo above was a quick mount, so I could test that the head unit worked before moving on. Use all the screws and tighten them down.

10: For the rest of it, Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure to wire your emergency flashers button and airbag indicator light. If you do not, the Airbag light will illuminate.


Here it is, with the upper panel in place. Yes, I know my interior needs detailed badly. I will do that after the install is completed for sure.

I am still in the process of installing stuff. I move slow. This will be updated slowly in the areas I have reserved for updates. I hope this helps some people.

It took me two hours to type this out by time I uploaded, and edited photos. I started resizing halfway down, because I realized that these things were redonkulously huge. If you can find it in your heart to boost me (Shameless Plug), that would rule. I'm currently FatMatting the doors, and installing the trim rings. I am at work today, so tomorrow I am putting in another long day on the cube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Fat Mat (Sound deadening):

This will be more of a general instruction, followed by a series of pictures, showing the progress. I've never sound deadened anything before. The Ironic part to this whole thing, is that the heat gun I was using to warm up the Fat Mat for the cube was originally bought to heat up and scrape the OEM sound deadening out of the 240SX. Even my friend commented on how it was funny to see me take my time and route wires and carefully remove trim for re-installation, as I've always been into speed, and gutting cars, lol. This is how the cube has the power to change a man! Even without the door panels on, the car sounds like a Cadillac shutting. As I was tapping the doors, I was noticing that the taps were getting deeper. This is going to do a lot to both keep out unwanted noise, and deepen and improve the mid-bass. Also, there is alot of foam on the floor under the carpet, so I don't think I am going to bother with adding sound deadening to that yet. Only in a few specific places. The foam is very thick, so I would say it is killing a lot of noise.

Tools and Items:
FatMat or other sound deadening material (eDead, DynaMat, etc.)
Roller
Razor Blade
Heat Gun (Hair Dryer at the least)
Patience
Panel Removal tool, or taped up Screwdriver.
Philips Head Screwdriver

Front Door Panel:


1: Remove this phillip's head screw, it is the only screw holding the door panel on.


2: This is the page from the FSM, concerning the locations of the factory door clips. Use your panel removal tool, or taped up screwdriver to remove these clips. Be careful. I managed to not break any of the clips removing it. If you feel like door panel is catching from further away from your tool than where it is, move closer to that area. It makes it easier, because the leverage is greater. After all of the clips are disengaged, carefully lift up on the door panel. You will notice it is held in by the wiring to the window and door lock switches. Use a flat head screw driver to push in on the disengage point and pull down. I wish I had a photo for this, I might take one when I move to the other side of the car.


3: Remove this bracket using either a philips head screw driver or a 10mm wrench or socket. After this is removed, pull off the plastic weather guard. You can keep it, or you can toss it. Since I'm deadening my whole door panel, I tossed it.


4: Pull the plug to the front speaker out.


5: Using a philips head screwdriver, remove the three screws holding the speaker in. Carefully remove the speaker. You may want to put this back in one day if you ever sell your car.

The panel of your front door is now off.

Now it's time to throw down the sound deadening.



First, use some of the rubber sealant stuck to the plastic weather guard to remove the excess rubber sealant. Those of you with kids probably know how to do this due to incidents with gum. :) Just rapidly press the sealant to the other sealant still on the door. Eventually it will all come off. Once this is done, use some degreaser to spray the door down and remove any debris or grime. This will help the deadening to stick. I took it one step further and used rubbing alcohol to remove any remaining grease, etc.

Cut this stuff into pieces that are manageable for you. A lot of my pieces on the interior on the outer door skin were 6x6", 6x12", or 6x18". Many were even smaller than that. What sizes you cut it into are up to you. As long as you cover the panel on the inside, it's good. On the outside, most of the pieces were 1'x1' or 1'x2'.

Use a heat gun to make the stuff warm up, it makes it a lot more manageable, and makes it conform to surfaces better. Remember you do not want air in between the deadening and the door panels. This is because the material doesn't actually kill sound, it kills vibrations, which cause the rattles you hear. You know the guy in front of you in the Dynasty with 2 Sony Explode 12s from Walmart and the 1,000,000,000,000,000 watt Pyramid amp that pushes only 125 watts on a good day whose trunk is rattling like it's ready to fall off.... sound deadening would fix that for you... but he'd still be stuck with crappy sound equipment...

My FatMat came with a roller for installation.... you need this. If your kit doesn't come with one, buy one. this is the only thing that will really get the deadening material down against the door like it should, and will help remove air bubbles.

Cut the appropriate size of matting and apply as best as you can to the contours you are dealing with. When you add the next piece, overlap it a little bit, maybe 1/8 or 1/4". Now roll this down and move to the next piece. Keep doing this until the outer door skin is done, and then move to the inner door skin. A good trick to do is to tap on the panel you are deadening. You will be able to tell a MAJOR difference between what needs deadened and what doesn't.

The safe bet for how far to go out with the material is to take it to where the original plastic weather guard was. Make sure no important holes are covered. Trim around the holes while the tar adhesive is soft. Once this sets up a bit, it is a PAIN IN THE BUTT to remove.

So now on to the pictures of it being installed. If you need anything clarified anymore, just ask me, and I will add it to the write up.


Some FatMat, the roller, and the razor blade. The razor and roller came with 100ft. of FatMat for $130 shipped.


The FatMat cuts pretty easy with a razor blade, but the tar adhesive gums up the blade quick.



Behind the speaker hole, make sure you double up on the mat. This will improve midbass.



Just finishing up the outer door panel's FatMatting. Once your done, tap on it and listen to how flat it sounds. This is why it helps your music sound better... well that in addition to lowering the ambient noise floor in the car.


The bottom sheet is what the FatMat looks like before rolling it down.


And this is what it looks like after it's rolled down to the door.


Halfway there.


All finished... except The you will have to cut out a spot where the white plastic on the back of the door panel goes back into the door. I didn't realize this until I got to putting the panel back on. Oh well, everyone makes mistakes. I'll highlight the approximate area on another photo. I had forgotten all about that being on the back of the panel, until I went to put it back on.

Rear Door:


1:Remove the screw from the rear door handle


2: On the rear door, there is also a screw going through the ripple hook connector. The situation on this is the same as it was on the console for the stereo install. The location of this screw, along with the door handle screw is shown on the FSM chart below.


3: Here you can see the locations of the two screws referenced in the previous two steps. Also use this as a guide for the locations of the snaps holding the door panel in place. Use your trim removal tools or your taped screwdriver to remove these. Remember that it is easier to pop and to avoid breaking snaps when your screw driver is closer to the fastener.


4: With all the snaps unfastened, don't forget there is a wiring harness behind this door as well. Use a flat head screwdriver once again to push in the clip on the berg connector, and pull it out. The panel should now be released from anything holding it to the door. Pull slightly up and out, just like you did on the front door. The panel is now removed.

GLUED FOAM!!

Yes, if you have a base model with no rear door speakers, you will notice foam glued over the hole.


Also, the rear speaker harness is taped to that foam covered harness that connects the window control mechanism. Thanks to someone in another thread for pointing that out. I will add your name as soon as I go back over the thread! Everyone that contributes will be thanked!


5: Rip it out and pull off all of it that you can!!!


6: Now, since the surface has to be clean for sound deadening to stick, you'll have to get rid of all this residue. I used a bumper sticker and adhesive removal can that I had left over from removing the dealer badge on the exterior of the car. OMG, it seems like this stuff is never going to come off of the door completely... but it will! Just stick with it. I also found that wiping a bit off, and switching to a clean rag worked well. If you keep using a rag with the residue on it, it just keeps reapplying the old glue... that's how sticky this stuff is.


7: Remove the two bolts from this bracket with a 10mm or philip's head screw driver. You are now free to remove the plastic weather guard. Once again use the method of using the adhesive to pull the left over adhesive off of the doors.

***At this point if you have a car with rear speakers, and are following this article, remove the door speakers as outlined on the front door section. It should be exactly the same.***

Adding sound deadening to the rear doors is much the same as the front, except there is a whole lot more room to work. Almost the whole door has a hole to reach the outer shell to add your deadening. I trust you can follow the concept from above, so I'm just gonna show you the rear door ready to go.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyuhgHOdnCU
This video is not quite 100% how I did it, but it is still a pretty good visual guide to see. I always like to see stuff done first, because it helps me mimic their success.

AMP INSTALLATION.
This section will cover the Installation of the amp.

SPEAKERS

Now it's on to the speakers. I know some of these pictures may not be as detailed and descriptive as on the previous items, but it's pretty straightforward. Line up the holes and insert screws. The only thing I had to mess with to get it to fit, was to bend the speaker terminals on the back of the rear coaxials. I have pictures of that. I do not know if this will be universal information, but it was needed for the Phoenix Gold RSD6.5 Coaxial Speakers for the rear doors.

First things first, how to mount the speaker ring:

You may not want to bother with the silicone, as it gives your car a slight odor for some time... but if you're installing any of the lower priced sound deadening materials... your car is gonna have a slight smell of tar. So why not add some silicone... I didn't want to risk the rings rattling against anything, so I siliconed it down.

Basically the ring bolts to the exact location where you removed the stock speaker. You can reuse the stock screws. If you have a base like me, you are going to have to go buy some sheet metal screws that are the right size for the hole. These would be cheapest at a hardware store, but I was already in Advance so I bought a couple of packages there.



After running a bead along the speaker ring, place it to the door with the holes aligned, and used a screw driver to replace the screws. Be careful, these can strip, as the metal is about 1/16".


In the rear, even if you have to buy screws, it is no different. The sheet metal screws will tape threads as they go.

Tweeters
Ok, so I'm going to skip around a bit. My car didn't have tweeters from the factory, and I have no Idea how they were installed. I began looking online and noticed that some of the guys at a few of the Bimmer forums had used hot glue to install them to the panels. The looked like a fairly secure and say way to install the tweeters. But, do not get hot glue, or any foreign substance for that matter, on the dome of your tweeters. Ruin City.

The tweeters that came with the Phoenix Gold component set I bought were 3/4". They butted up against the "collar" in the trim panel pretty well.

Remove the Trim Panel


This is the back of the panel. This pic will let you see the "collar" I was talking about as well as the clip locations.


At least with the PG tweets, this is how I stripped it down to the bare tweeter.



That is how the tweeter comes from PG. Apply a little pressure and twist the top of the tweeter to release it from the back half. Then pull the wires through. Then screw off the silver trim ring.


In this picture I screwed the trim ring off first, but you get the idea.





Break out the glue gun Ladies and Gents.

I found the best technique was to position the tweeter where you wanted it on the collar, and then drizzle the hotglue, and let it run down both the tweeter and the collar. Since gravity is pulling the glue down and no where near the dome, this gives you the least amount of chance that you will get any on the dome. I then went all around the tweeter. When the glue dried this was solid as a rock.




Now with the tweeter secured, I used a small strip of Fatmat to secure the wires closely to the panels. You could use tape, but I had scrap laying around, and I hate to waste. Gotta be green for the planet ;) lol.




I then soldered some 18ga. wire to the factory wires for the tweeters, to make them long enough to reach my crossovers. My crossovers are under my dash, laying in that area right in front of the center console. I gave each tweeter a run of ten feet, since I didn't know how I would run my wire, and I always think it's a little bit better to use a little bit too much and cut, than it is to use to little and have to add.




Sorry, but I have no pictures from wiring up the crossovers, but it really is self explanatory. There is a + and - for the input, which comes from your source, be it an amp or a headunit, a + and - for the midwoofer, and a + and - for the tweeter. I'm not be sarcastic or an a__hole, but if you can't figure this out, you should take your system to someone to have it put in, as you may not be qualified. I only say that because my intention in this article is to help people better their vehicles, not destroy them. With that being said, I set the gain switch in the crossover to +2db, put the covers on them, and secured them with tape. to place under the dash. Also, I labeled the crossovers as left and right side. Labeling may be time consuming and seem dumb at the time, but you'll think yourself later if you have to trouble shoot 3 or 4 months down the road and have a hard time remembering what you did, and what you ran where.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
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Wow, Great post, keep'em coming! I plan on building my system in the next few weeks. Any tips on fiberglassing the rear cargo box to use as a sub enclosure? :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you! I'll be adding as I get time, so keep posted. Unfortunately, I don't know anything about fiberglass. However, If you want to make a sub enclosure using your cargo box, contact ATI about their 10" enclosure they built for it. If you want to see pics of it installed, check the threads about the cube built for SEMA at the beangarage.com bean yourself blog. It shows the build parts used in pretty good detail. That is what I'm going to use to mount a single 10. Good luck with your build, and if you need any help ask me.
 

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For the switch you added (at the push button location), did you put in a fuse as well?

FYI: For routing speaker wires to the doors, I used a cutted up peice of cloth hanger to fish the wire through the rubber.

007
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The toggle completes a ground circuit, so no fuse is needed.

We tried to use a stiff wire to feed the line and felt it was easier without it. Buuuut, some people may find this to be quite effective. Thanks for sharing the tip!
 

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Rubik said:
Thank you! I'll be adding as I get time, so keep posted. Unfortunately, I don't know anything about fiberglass. However, If you want to make a sub enclosure using your cargo box, contact ATI about their 10" enclosure they built for it. If you want to see pics of it installed, check the threads about the cube built for SEMA at the beangarage.com bean yourself blog. It shows the build parts used in pretty good detail. That is what I'm going to use to mount a single 10. Good luck with your build, and if you need any help ask me.

Hey Rubik,

Are the guys from ATI making boxes for the public? I thought I read some where that they won't be selling the boxes till some time next year :(
 

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Just out of curiosity, why didn't you run the "parking brake" wire to ground directly so it always thinks the parking brake is on instead of putting a switch in?

Cheers!

Dang
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Beat_box: Next year I've been told means early 2010, presumably in the first quarter. The guys at ATI are wanting to hear from us, in terms of knowing there is a demand for their products. Give them a shout, or email them. They really are a great team of people. I also believe, if I understood Spencer correctly, that Bean Garage will also be the sole distributor of the ATI Parts. He said he would message me when they are in, because he knows how bad I want one, but I would send him a line as well, and ask for a heads up. Spencer is a class act.

Dang: On some of the older head units, you could just ground out the wire, and it would work. In order to prevent that from happening, manufacturers begain to alter the system. It is now "looking" for a "hit" there for it wants to see the circuit completed. To back this up when I turned on the car, the switch I had when I was testing it was set to "on" thereby completing the circuit. The HU displayed the "cannot watch while driving" warning. When I turned it off and back on, the video played perfectly. The manual also says that if the video does not come on when you start the car with the parking brake engaged, to disengage "if safe" and then to re-engage the parking brake. This would serve the same purpose as flipping the switch on and off.

I hope this answer both of you guys' questions. They were both good questions. If you have any more, keep them coming. The whole reason behind this thread is to inform. :)

Rubik
 

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Oh btw, I am adding a switch for different application to yours. As I have mentioned, I am using the stock headunit which does not have a "signal" to the amp; therefore, I am adding a switch to turn on and off the amp as needed. Most of the time it will be on as long as my key is turned on in the ignition. Just once in a blue moon if I want to turn the amp off, I can.

Rubic
In that case, do you think I need to put in a inline fuse? The switch is connected to +12V.


Also, are you going to install an alarm? (that's a must for you). It would be great if you can provide info to that as well.

Thanks
007
 

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Sorry of I missed this but if I have a base model and want rear speakers I will have to run speaker wire back there? Or are the speaker wires already there for the rear?
 

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Speaker wires are already there. See if you can find the wiring diagram.
Look in the fsm avail on this site. Let me know if you can't find it.

007
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
+1 for Miata. The speaker wires are taped to the window harness. If you look at the picture of the rear door, you can see some grey electrical tape around the foam over the wires. This is what is hold the speaker wires up to the window harness.
 

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great thread, it is giving me the confidence to get an s model and put the stereo in I want rather than getting a SL with the audio package.
 

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Awesome thread, I've read it many times. Can't wait for more documentation of your install.
 

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thanks for the awesome thread... I'm looking at picking up the Clarion NX409, which I believe is essentially the same HU as this but with nav included. I'm anticipating an easy install now, thanks to your great work here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No problems guys, thanks to the kind words. There is some more to add to the article, but I'm behind on alot of real world stuff, so I've had to put this on hold. I still have to write the part on the amp and the 6.5" Speakers. I will also include the sub and amp install when I get the $$$ to cover that.
 

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Just a note... had my stereo installed today. Mentioned the hot glue trick with the tweeters and they said "No way, no how" would they do that. They said the heat from the sun inside the interior would melt it and the tweeter will fall and you'll have a puddle of glue running everywhere.
 
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