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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I've been meaning to post this for a while but it's taken longer than expected. I got my cube at the end of July, installed the new head unit in September, the sub amp/subs in October, and just got the speaker amp installed last weekend. I still need to replace the factory speakers but that will happen sometime next year.

I used several posts on this forum for assistance (Boxcar, Moshe, and jasonbillups posts were especially helpful). I had pulled all of the components out of my old car, with the exception of the sub amp and the wiring kit/DB, which I purchased new for this project.

I ran 4awg wire from the battery to a distribution block, then 8awg wire from the DB to each amp. I also added an on/off switch that allows me to turn off the sub amp for the times I need to remove the subs for additional cargo room. I also added the remote volume control for the sub amp so I can adjust it manually on the fly if a song has too little/too much bass. I'm a little disappointed as it isn't as sensitive as I would have thought it would be, but it does the job.

Dash Opening


New Head Unit


New Head Unit Installed


Wheel well where I ran the power wire from the battery into the cab (the big blue wire).


Where I ran the power wire


Sub Amp


Sub Amp Volume Control


Both Amps (this picture was taken before I finished running the speaker/RCA cables)
 

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looks really good! i just ordered some stuff myself and can't wait for my stereo upgrade.
 

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Looks great man!
 

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You pulled the seats out! :eek:

No issues with the airbags? I saw no wires or plugs either. Did I miss that the S type has no seat airbags? :-\
 

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No Christine, they all have them Standard Equipment. I have a base model and I still have seat airbags. Although the biggest airbag in the car is usually me, lol.
 

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I was thinking of mounting my amps under the seats as well however not sure if I should do that or mount them with the amp rack on the box that is eventually going to be put in. Decisions, decisions.

Although with them out of sight makes one feel safer.

Were the seats easy to pull out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ChristineK said:
You pulled the seats out! :eek:

No issues with the airbags? I saw no wires or plugs either. Did I miss that the S type has no seat airbags? :-\
Yes, pulling the seats out was no biggie, only 4 bolts, but I did need a Torx bit (size 50) to remove the two rear bolts. The driver's side has 2 plugs and the passenger side has 3. You can see them in the pics, on the sub amp pic, it's the black wire on the left with the white and yellow plug. On the both amps pic, it's the black wire on the right with 2 white plugs and a yellow plug. They also have some white plastic clips that you need to pry off the frame of the seat before you can take the seat out.

NOTE: The believe the FSM says to disconnect the battery and wait at least 3 minutes before disconnecting the plugs in the seat (I think I read it somewhere).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Q!Cube said:
I was thinking of mounting my amps under the seats as well however not sure if I should do that or mount them with the amp rack on the box that is eventually going to be put in. Decisions, decisions.

Although with them out of sight makes one feel safer.

Were the seats easy to pull out?
Yup, just 4 bolts each but you'll the a torx 50 bit for the rear bolts. You'll also need to pry the wire clips off the seats. Removing the seats made running the wires/cables much easier. You'll probably also need to remove the plastic rails in the door channel (just pries off), then the 3 clips the hold the rail on if you want to pull the carpet up a little. Just a warning though...don't be surprised when you lift the carpet and find that the floors of your cube are made of styro-foam!
 

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mswguitar said:
The driver's side has 2 plugs and the passenger side has 3. You can see them in the pics, on the sub amp pic, it's the black wire on the left with the white and yellow plug. On the both amps pic, it's the black wire on the right with 2 white plugs and a yellow plug. They also have some white plastic clips that you need to pry off the frame of the seat before you can take the seat out.
Ahh, I thought those were for the Amps.

I have seen and done the mount the amp inside the sub box. The sub moves a huge volume of air, and that air gets moved across the amp and out of the box. Mounting under the seat its convection only and its an insulated area with little air movement.

Just an idea for those looking to save space and improve amp cooling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
miata007 said:
hi
The amps you've mounted on the board...how did you secure the board to the floor?

Thanks
007
I didn't secure them to the floor because there's not really anything to secure them to. The board on the sub amp is so I can mount the amp, distribution block, and on/off switch. The board on the other amp wasn't really necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Beat_box said:
I love the set up, but can the cube's small alternator handle all the extra amperage?
Thanks! Not sure about the alternator, haven't see any issues yet, but will post a reply if I notice anything.
 

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Yesterday,I've finally got a chance to put things back together and able to start the car and stereo runs fine BUT.....the airbag warning light is blinking constantly.
Any one encounter this? Solution?

Here's what I did over the past few weeks:
- Routed power to amp.
- removed front passenger seat and mount amp there
- replaced OEM speakers with aftermarktet
- removed # of panels and center console for amp installation

I've tried to look up more info in FSM but not found anything.

Thanks
007
 

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I'll be doing a slightly less ambitious installation soon, so I've been reading posts about installations. The air bag light issue caught my attention. Below is some info that others posted about it.

Cube Air Bag Warning Light

It is the same for I think most all Nissan, at least the newer ones. All I know is that it worked for my cube and you can def search it through google. but follow this and it should work. may take a few tries.

push the ignition from OFF to ON
the air bag warning light will appear for about 7 seconds and turns off.
then push igniition switch OFF immediately.
after ignition switch is turned OFF, wait for about 6 seconds.
after you REPEAT THE PROCEDURE 3 TIMES, push the ignition switch ON, this time the ABS warning light has been reset.
step on the brake and push the button to start the car. turn the ignition off and start the car. Hope this will help. I did this procedure to my car and it works.
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A little more to it...
But still no biggie...
This works...
By the way, what you did "wrong" is you turned on the ign to test your radio install before to re-connected the airbag light. The system looked for teh warning light, didn't find it a said "something is wrong..." Feel free to disconnect it while doing the install, but in the future, make sure it is plugged in before you turn the ign. back on.
1. Procedure:
Here's the process to reset the air bag light (copied from somewhere else on the forum)... I tried it and it works.
If you have the airbag light, it will show steady for a few seconds (the manual says 7 secs) after you turn the key from off to on (but not start) and then start to flash. Here is how to reset it:
1. Turn the key from off to on.
2. Watch the airbag light closely. It will stay on for a few secs. and then as soon as it blinks off (the start of the flashing), turn the key off instantly.
3. Count to 5 (1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi . . . .)
4. Repeat steps 1-3 two more times until you have done the cycle three times.
5. Now turn the key on and watch the light. It will start blinking in a different, slower manner. This is diagnostic mode. You can watch this for a little while, no hurry.
6. Now turn the key off again, Count to 5 like in step 3 again, and turn back on. If the procedure worked, the airbag light will not be flashing.
If it does not work the first time, just repeat the steps again.
 
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