Those of you with the CVT transmissions................how do you like them so far? I've never driven a CVT car. I like driving stick, but Nissan is not being very nice about the options for the Cubes. For those of us not in the know, lets hear what you like or don't like. Also, 6 speed people, let's hear what you like or dislike about yours too. Any input will help us "shoppers" still doing research...................thanks
CVT transmissions
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After having driven manuals for my whole life; I really am enjoying the ease of the CVT in my Krom model. I have caught my left foot going for nonexistant clutch three times now but otherwise no problems here.
I really wanted the CVT because going up all of the hills around here, I didn't want to be downshifting every two seconds. With such a small engine, the CVT is really a good match for this engine and the Cube in general.
I can definately see how gas mileage is better in the CVT models. The transmision knows a lot better than us drivers at what RPM's to stay at to get the best economy and power.
I don't about the six speed, but on level ground at 70mph my engine only runs at 2200 RPM which is more of what a V8 would turn at that speed in top gear. It is no wonder I just got 33.2 miles per gallon today when I filled with my first tank of gas.
I really wanted the CVT because going up all of the hills around here, I didn't want to be downshifting every two seconds. With such a small engine, the CVT is really a good match for this engine and the Cube in general.
I can definately see how gas mileage is better in the CVT models. The transmision knows a lot better than us drivers at what RPM's to stay at to get the best economy and power.
I don't about the six speed, but on level ground at 70mph my engine only runs at 2200 RPM which is more of what a V8 would turn at that speed in top gear. It is no wonder I just got 33.2 miles per gallon today when I filled with my first tank of gas.
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i REALLY need to drive like an old lady to get close to 30 mpg. about 50/50 city/hwy miles. I'm on my 3rd tank, and it's gotten progressively worse, yet I drive extra careful. Oh well. These things are supposed to be high-revving right?
On a similar not, since I've got the CVT, and I wonder for all you gearheads, how long this thing is supposed to last? I hear they just don't rebuild these things if they go south. Painful replacement prospects. My last car is a 20 yo MR2, and I drove the snot out of that thing. Didn't have to replace the tranny or clutch. I was hoping there'd be an option like Honda's paddle-shift...just so I can wring every ounce of power out of the little hamsters! (My wife doesn't drive manuals.)
On a similar not, since I've got the CVT, and I wonder for all you gearheads, how long this thing is supposed to last? I hear they just don't rebuild these things if they go south. Painful replacement prospects. My last car is a 20 yo MR2, and I drove the snot out of that thing. Didn't have to replace the tranny or clutch. I was hoping there'd be an option like Honda's paddle-shift...just so I can wring every ounce of power out of the little hamsters! (My wife doesn't drive manuals.)
I did some reading around and found that this is the type of CVT that our CVT Cubes utilize...
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cvt3.htm
It looks shockingly simple dosn't it?
Here is the Wikipedia page for the CVT, it is kind of interesting...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuously_variable_transmission
The CVT is a lot of the reason that I won't be doing any engine mods to mine. I'd be real careful about how much extra HP is put through that transmission. I may put in a K&N air filter a little later but that is it.
My gas mileage is going downhill too, a little bit since I'm on my third tank so far.
The first tank 33.2 MPG, average speed: 39 MPH
Second tank: 30.32 MPG average speed: 34 MPH
Third Tank: 29.0 MPG average speed: 34 MPH
I think that a lot of the reason for this is that as the engine breaks in, so do I. I'm learning how to drive it and be more comfortable with it. In other words, I'm driving it a little harder than when I got 33.2mpg for that first tank. I still haven't floored it or anything near that as I am being very careful about the breakin though.
So far, the computer aveage miles per gallon display has been off by an average of +.076 MPG. Basically it reads too high.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cvt3.htm
It looks shockingly simple dosn't it?
Here is the Wikipedia page for the CVT, it is kind of interesting...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuously_variable_transmission
The CVT is a lot of the reason that I won't be doing any engine mods to mine. I'd be real careful about how much extra HP is put through that transmission. I may put in a K&N air filter a little later but that is it.
My gas mileage is going downhill too, a little bit since I'm on my third tank so far.
The first tank 33.2 MPG, average speed: 39 MPH
Second tank: 30.32 MPG average speed: 34 MPH
Third Tank: 29.0 MPG average speed: 34 MPH
I think that a lot of the reason for this is that as the engine breaks in, so do I. I'm learning how to drive it and be more comfortable with it. In other words, I'm driving it a little harder than when I got 33.2mpg for that first tank. I still haven't floored it or anything near that as I am being very careful about the breakin though.
So far, the computer aveage miles per gallon display has been off by an average of +.076 MPG. Basically it reads too high.
Are you varying the speed for break -in? Do you know if they are using full synthetic from the factory? If not, are you going to switch to it after several thousand miles? That's what I did with my Scions. Several people (good mechanics) told me to wait till about 5k to switch over. I actually got the oil changed at 500 to 750 miles the first time to insure a good clean engine and filter. I broke in a rebuilt engine once...............a little different from a factory new one, but you wouldn't believe all the tiny bits of metal, gasket sealant, etc. The engine was great...........just lots of little particles in the oil at first. Hence the term.............break-in. Takes a few miles while all the parts get to know each other. 8) Same for gearboxes and differentials and such.
I don't know about synthetic oil being used in the engine from the factory.
I would like to start using synthetic in it eventually. I'm not sure exactly when I'll start though. I've got some 10w-30w Amsoil that I'd just bought to put in the Dakota. I was doing once a year(17k mile) oil changes in it and it did fine, actually burned less on Amsoil than on the Mobil 1 I'd been using before that. I noticed that the Cube takes 5w-30w, I am going to attempt to exchange that 10w-30w for the right kind. I sure hope I can, fortunately, I bought it locally.
I definately won't be doing extended oil changes in the Cube though, at least not while it is under the powertrain warranty.
I'm not trying to use the cruise control a lot. I know not to leave it at the same RPM for a long time, thanks for the heads up though.
I'm glad that you posted about doing the first oil change at around 700 miles, I just hit 700 miles and might go ahead and get it changed then.
I would like to start using synthetic in it eventually. I'm not sure exactly when I'll start though. I've got some 10w-30w Amsoil that I'd just bought to put in the Dakota. I was doing once a year(17k mile) oil changes in it and it did fine, actually burned less on Amsoil than on the Mobil 1 I'd been using before that. I noticed that the Cube takes 5w-30w, I am going to attempt to exchange that 10w-30w for the right kind. I sure hope I can, fortunately, I bought it locally.
I definately won't be doing extended oil changes in the Cube though, at least not while it is under the powertrain warranty.
I'm not trying to use the cruise control a lot. I know not to leave it at the same RPM for a long time, thanks for the heads up though.
I'm glad that you posted about doing the first oil change at around 700 miles, I just hit 700 miles and might go ahead and get it changed then.
I am widely viewed as an idiot, but I use synthetic oil in my vehicles, and change the oil about every 3000 miles. I'm well aware that synthetic oil lasts longer, but I want the contamination out of it, so I change it often. I've been challenged on this before, I once calculated that the additional cost between normal oil changed every 5K miles and synthetic oil changed every 3K miles is less than $100 a year. With my Cube, I'll be doing two additional steps I haven't done in the past: use a magnet on the oil filter (to trap any steel particles) and a pre-oiler (to pressurize the oil in the engine before I start it up).
Well, that initial oil change (where the oil was full of little tiny particles and such ) was on the rebuilt engine, years ago. But an early initial oil change on any new motor is just a little bit of added insurance against foreign matter. 8) Some people think it's not necessary. Always seemed to make sense to me. 8)
Do you do your own oil changes? If you do your own oil changes, be sure to keep your receipts for purchasing the filters and oil. I've heard of people having problems with the warranty when they did there own oil changes, the dealers would say that they didn't do the changes often enough...
I did my own oil changes on my Dakota but it was out of warranty and had so much ground clearance that I didn't even need to jack it up.
I've already decided that I'm going to have the dealer do all of my oil changes, I just don't want the hassle and I don't like being under cars on jackstands either.
Do you have a link to the pre-oiler? I've never heard of one of those.
The magnet on the oil filter is a good idea, I had a magnet on the oil pan of my Dakota but not on the filter, I didn't think of that. I can see how that is better.
I did my own oil changes on my Dakota but it was out of warranty and had so much ground clearance that I didn't even need to jack it up.
I've already decided that I'm going to have the dealer do all of my oil changes, I just don't want the hassle and I don't like being under cars on jackstands either.
Do you have a link to the pre-oiler? I've never heard of one of those.
The magnet on the oil filter is a good idea, I had a magnet on the oil pan of my Dakota but not on the filter, I didn't think of that. I can see how that is better.
MasterKC..........I don't see the need to change synthetic every 3k, but doing so doesn't mean someone is an idiot. Some people are just that finicky about their cars. Change it when you want as long as you recycle. It's YOUR car. Hell, my neighbor puts synthetic fluids in his differential, and transmission too. Fuel is expensive these days and synthetics result in less friction=better mileage.
BTW........a few years back when a friend of mine bought a Camry, the salesman told him there was a device in the engine to insure pre-oiling or prestart oil pressure. I don't know if that's true or not...........anyone else know??? Where do you buy these devices and are they hard to install????? Sounds like something I'd like to know more about.
BTW........a few years back when a friend of mine bought a Camry, the salesman told him there was a device in the engine to insure pre-oiling or prestart oil pressure. I don't know if that's true or not...........anyone else know??? Where do you buy these devices and are they hard to install????? Sounds like something I'd like to know more about.
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124 Posts
Actually, the cube uses the same XTronic CVT that Nissan put in the Versa. Here is a link to Nissan's explanation of its CVT:ewraven said:
http://www.nissan-global.com/EN/TECHNOLOGY/INTRODUCTION/DETAILS/CVT/
Still simple, just not the rotating disc version.
1st post!Starbuck said:
Both my cars are CVTs now. My car is an 06 Ford Five Hundred, and the cube is theoretically my wife's, although I have fallen for it. I am amazed how much pep the cube gleans out of its tiny engine. Its got to be a combination of the weight, and the CVT.
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That tranny design is so ridiculously simple in design. I love it.
When simplicity works, like old German engineering.
I was truly expecting a complicated system with a large conical gear.
I see 60mpg on the gauge all the time, but 8 or 9 at start up. Will have to see from a full tank empty to know for sure how I am fairing.
I do notice it like to run at 50 - 55 best
Christine
When simplicity works, like old German engineering.
I was truly expecting a complicated system with a large conical gear.
I see 60mpg on the gauge all the time, but 8 or 9 at start up. Will have to see from a full tank empty to know for sure how I am fairing.
I do notice it like to run at 50 - 55 best
Christine
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124 Posts
Don't be fooled! Continuosly variable transmissions are quite complex in the end.
The tricky thing about a CVT is that the design is incredibly simple, but the execution of the design is unbelievably difficult. Not only do you have to design a transmission that will resist wear and tear, you also have to design a control system that will efficiently change the gear ratio at the proper time.
The tricky thing about a CVT is that the design is incredibly simple, but the execution of the design is unbelievably difficult. Not only do you have to design a transmission that will resist wear and tear, you also have to design a control system that will efficiently change the gear ratio at the proper time.
I enjoy the CVT. I agree withe the comment about milage changing as I drive. On the InterState I drive just shy of 70 and in the low 31's on mpg. IN town I find I can zip around (great turning radius) so it has dropped from high 28's to 24's and that's because I play around with it.
Pejay66
Pejay66
Starbuck, The pre oiler your salesman was describing was probably the anti drainback valve that is built in to many oil filters. This keeps the oil passages between the filter and the jets that actually spray the oil to the bearing surfaces full of oil when the engine shuts down. Without the valve in the oil filter the oil would eventually drain backwards down the line and return to the sump. When the engine does start again there is a delay before the oil gets delivered where it is needed because the oil passages need to be filled with oil again.
Some engine installations do actually have a separate oil pump, usually electrically driven, just to bring the oil pressure up to operating levels before the engine is started, but these are radial aircraft engines from WW2 vintage, and they have a whole other set of problems regarding where the oil settles and how it gets distributed.
Some engine installations do actually have a separate oil pump, usually electrically driven, just to bring the oil pressure up to operating levels before the engine is started, but these are radial aircraft engines from WW2 vintage, and they have a whole other set of problems regarding where the oil settles and how it gets distributed.
My wife's Dodge Calibur and her present Jeep Compass have this type of transmission in them and they are junk. Very spastic. They kick down and up at the smallest adjustment to the gas. It feels very spongey and sloppy during acceleration. That might be why I'm so impressed with the CTV. It does none of that. My mileage is starting to creep up as the engine breaks in. I've got 4,500 miles on it and I'm gettiong 28-29 mph with 40/60 mix of city/hyway driving. I tend to do 75-80mph.
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