[eddiesti2004]

hi.i would like to know do we need any camber kit after we lower our cube with the megan spring?!?!

 

[1HoTCuBe]

none of us that have has had one installed..i will get back to you after a couple months or so if I think it will be used..

 

[Pube]

no... you dont. You can if you want some good alignment. but if you're going to stay with standard alignment. Then no

 

[Square1]

A general rule of thumb when lowering your car is that you most likely will stay within camber specs on anything 2" or less, anything more than that will most likely require some type of adjusters. But like anything, there are always exceptions to this. I would say about 90% of the car's I've lowered (and I've done a couple hundred in my shop) pretty much followed this rule with only a few exceptions. I don't know about the cube since I haven't done mine yet, but I hope to know sometime in the near future. The good thing about the design of the cube's suspension is that if you do need some adjustment, the rears use a simple shim kit like the EZ-Shims, and the fronts just use an eccenrtic (sp) bolt that replace one of the exhisting bolts. - Dan

 

[TrevorS]

hi.i would like to know do we need any camber kit after we lower our cube with the megan spring?!?!

I haven't seen anyone say this, but if you install lowering springs, it's important to get an alignment. Lowering will definitely throw out the toe (accelerating tire wear) and will also change the camber.

I guess there're differing viewpoints on the camber impact, but both of my vehicles would definitely need camber correction with a 2" drop. A 1" to 1.5" drop may or may not take a vehicle out of camber spec, but 1.5" will probably at least be getting close. On mine, one was out of spec with a 1" drop and the other is borderline with a 1.5" drop (front bolts currently unavailable for the second, otherwise, I'd install a pair). I did install bolts on the one with the 1" drop, fortunately, the rear has adjusters and so they could be brought in via thrust alignment.

 

[Square1]

There are many car's that will stay withing camber specs with up to about a 2" drop while others won't. And this may even differ within a single make and model. I've never seen a car dropped any amount that didn't throw out the toe. Regardless weather someone you know dropped their car and it stayed in specs, you should ALWAYS have your car checked after a drop.

If you look at the cubes specs, the rear wheels have quite a bit of negative camber from the manufacture, most than most car's I've owned. You can look at the rear wheels and it's pretty obvious. Because of this I would think since it's already quite negative it will increase with a drop and be out. I'll no more about this once I get around to dropping mine. I'm going to do a before and after check on it's current alighment. - Dan

 

[aftershock141]

Have you guys been able to get proper alignments (stock specs) while running the Megan Springs? Does anyone know how much negative camber you are able to run with the stock suspension setup and springs?

 

[Square1]

Have you guys been able to get proper alignments (stock specs) while running the Megan Springs? Does anyone know how much negative camber you are able to run with the stock suspension setup and springs?

This is what Nissan say’s it should be, ideally it should be as close to nominal for best handling, comfort, and tire wear. Racing is a whole different ball game. As you can see, the rear’s are negative from the manufacture and have quite a range of allowable negative camber.

Rear camber:
Minimum -2.01*
Nominal -1.51*
Maximum -1.01*

Rear Toe:
Minimum out 0.039”
Nominal in 0.118”
Maximum 1n 0.275

Front camber:
Minimum -0.58*
Nominal 0.17*
Maximum 0.91*
Left / right difference -0.75

Front Toe:
Minimum 0.0”
Nominal in 0.05”
Maximum in 0.07”